What drives me crazy about most fashion
industry coverage is that it is often limited to soundbites, tainted
with marketing spin, and driven by editorial objectives. This
perpetuates the notion of the superficial designer and undervalues the
contributions made by truly innovative creative geniuses like Karl
Lagerfeld.
It is rare to have an unedited, in-depth conversation with anyone
influential in this business-- let alone Karl Lagerfeld. But, not only
did PBS interviewer Charlie Rose have this rare opportunity, he seized
it with gusto in this clip I recently found on YouTube.
Together with Harriet-Mays-Powell,
Fashion Editor of New York Magazine, he deftly takes Mr. Lagerfeld
through a wide ranging one hour conversation (no easy task!) which goes
from his design process to the role of celebrity in fashion to the
relevance of haute couture to how fashion reflects the modern
zeitgeist. Lagerfeld also declares that second lines are
"condescending," "bridge lines are for the dentists," and that fashion
today is about mixing.
But,
the most interesting insight for me was Lagerfeld's appetite for
technology and change and how this is what has kept his design and
point-of-view relevant, even though he is decades older than many of
his contemporaries. To boot, he was one of the first designers to use
the Internet to show a runway collection. He has more than 100 iPods.
And, he famously "lost all that weight to fit into a Dior Homme suit",
which is just one example of a bad soundbite that makes him sound
shallow and stupid.
On the contrary, as he explains in this interview, through the
weight loss he was aiming to destroy his past self and become someone
new, citing French author Marguerite Duras and her book Détruire, dit-elle, or Destroy, she said. He says this is what enables him to stay modern. He is always looking forward.
As I heard him utter these words, it reminded me of an economic theory known as Creative Destruction, developed by Joseph Schumpeter in 1942, Wikipedia describes creative destruction as
The
process of transformation that accompanies radical innovation. In
Schumpeter's vision of capitalism, innovative entry by entrepreneurs
was the force that sustained long-term economic growth, even as it
destroyed the value of established companies that enjoyed some degree
of monopoly power.
Richard Foster and Sarah Kaplan, partners at McKinsey & Co, published a book expanding on this theory in their book with the same title, asserting that
rather
than aiming for continuity, companies should embrace discontinuity,
constructively destroying and re-creating themselves as needed (Publisher's Weekly)
Lagerfeld
seems to understand this intrinsically and has protected himself
against it. The theory is particularly poignant in the fashion
industry, which seems to move more and more quickly each day. Rather
than become outmoded and irrelevant, he just changes himself and
focuses only on the future. He doesn't even keep any archives.
Be forewarned. It's a one-hour
long clip, but it makes for fascinating listening. Go grab a cup of tea
and curl up in front of this one. It will provide much food for
thought. I am looking forward to hearing what you think.